Cornerstone Wholesale Tile Information

For an elegant and natural look in high traffic areas, it's hard to beat ceramic or porcelain tile. Available in glazed
or unglazed, tile is a good choice for moisture prone areas like entryways, kitchens or baths. Extremely durable
and simple to maintain, it compliments other floor types such as carpet, hardwood, or laminate. Another option is
natural stone, which comes in several forms and varies in look, usage and durability.

Among the most durable of flooring surfaces, tile also proves to offer an amazing array of design flooring
possibilities.

Ceramic tile is a mixture of clays and minerals that has been shaped, pressed, then fired at temperatures
exceeding 2,000 degrees (F), resulting in a hard surface. The protective glaze that is applied before firing gives
the ceramic tile added color and finish and makes it resistant to stains, odors, bacteria, and scratches.

Porcelain tile is a type of ceramic made of a very fine mixture of clays and minerals similar to those found in
fine dinnerware. These special clays allow porcelain tile to be fired at temperatures even higher than ceramic tile,
typically exceeding 2,400 degrees (F). The higher temperature results in a very dense tile. And the denser a tile,
the better it resists moisture.

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Tips For Installing Tile Flooring

Tips for installing ceramic tile floor
If you've thought about having a ceramic tile floor, but were afraid to take the plunge, read on. We'll demonstrate
that a do-it-yourself ceramic tile floor can be just about the least expensive floor covering you can buy. And, and
it's a lot easier to install than you might think. Most rooms are rectangular and therefore are reasonably easy to
tile.

Subfloor Preparation
The toughest part of a tile job is getting the existing floor cleaned and ready to accept the tile. Baseboard has to
be temporarily removed and door jambs and casings need to be trimmed up and away from the floor to clear the
thickness of the new tile and mortar. In a kitchen, all appliances that come into contact with the floor also must
be removed. Find out more about subfloor preparation.

What tools do you need and how much does it take?
We recently tiled a 200-square-foot sunroom for less than $500, or $2.50 per square foot, for all the materials
that we needed including: the tile, tile spacers, bonding agent, pre-mixed mortar, grout and even a mortar trowel.
We cleaned and prepped the floor in about four man-hours, and laid the center tiles in another 17. After they
dried, we installed the edge tiles in 16 man-hours. We hired a tile man's helper to do the grout work for $50. And
although the job took two of us two and a half days in actual man-hours, we had to spread the entire project over
three weekends because of other commitments.

At the Job site.
Step 1
The old flooring in the sunroom was composed of vinyl sheeting over three-eighths-inch particleboard
underlayment. And, the perimeter was trimmed with painted wood baseboard. The vinyl flooring was curling at
the seams and edges due to moisture vapors rising from the wine cellar below. Our thought was to remove the
vinyl and begin with new underlayment, and then tile. But after some thought we decided to use barbed roofing
nails to stitch down the curled edges of the flooring and permanently hold the vinyl in place. We felt it would
make a great vapor barrier to protect the new tile floor. That's right. We decided to tile over the vinyl. It was
easy. Once all the edges and seams were nailed in place, we used a belt sander to clean and roughen the vinyl.
After a thorough once-over with a vacuum cleaner, we applied two coats of bonding agent (glue). Since the plan
was to affix the tile directly to the vinyl floor covering, the bonding agent was required to help the thinset mortar
adhere.

Step 2
The next step was to snap layout lines with a chalk box so that the tile could be laid parallel to the walls and
cabinets; and, so that there would be uniform widths at the perimeter courses of tile where the floor meets the
walls and other objects. Remember tile is usually laid from the center of the room outward toward the walls.
Thus, no single placement error can continue for a distance greater than half the length of the room. When
opposing walls are not parallel the layout line is adjusted so as to split the distance.

Step 3
Once the layout lines were drawn, it was time to apply mortar. We used ready-mixed mortar because we
wanted a proper consistency. Since we don't lay tile every day, we were not sure what a proper mortar
consistency was. In any event, using the ready-mix mortar was a breeze. It troweled on easily and evenly. The
clerk at the tile store suggested that we apply the mortar to a depth of one-quarter inch. We simply applied the
mortar with a trowel that had quarter-inch grooves on the edge. We mortared about 6 square feet at a time and
used plastic tile spacers to guarantee perfect margins between tiles. Mortar is a water-base material and is
easy to clean when it is still wet. However, be warned. Don't let it get too dry before trying to clean it up.

Installing the perimeter tile was not difficult, but somewhat time-consuming. Each tile had to be cut to fit. We
chose to rent a tile saw rather than a snap cutter. The latter rented for less than half the cost of the former, but
we felt that we would have better control using the saw.

As the tile began to cover more and more of the vinyl, the room seemed to brighten and began to look rich and
luxurious. We couldn't believe our eyes. When the grout was finished you couldn't tell that the job had not been
done by a tile contractor

Ceramic tile is easier to install than most other types of floor coverings; it is less technical and more
forgiving than vinyl sheet goods and wood. If you follow this step-by-step guide, your installation will be as
professional as one of a seasoned pro. Proper Planning is Key!

TOOLS NEEDED:
Carpenters Square: Use as a straight edge and squaring tool
Level: Use to establish an even working plane
Tape Measure: Use for accurate measurements
Fiber Glass Tape: Use to tape joints
Backerboard Screws: Use to secure subfloor
Chalk Line: Use as a guide when laying tile
2 Buckets: For grout & adhesive
Tile Spacers: Use for precise tile alignment
Scrub Pad: Grout cleaning tool
Grout Float: Use to apply grout
Rubber Gloves
Firm, Round Edge Sponge: Will not leave excess liquid, is super absorbent.
Mixer Bar:Use to mix mortar
Rub Stone:Use to smooth edges
Notched Trowel:Use to spread adhesive
Notched Margin Trowel: Use to spread adhesive
Margin Float: Use to apply grout
8" Margin Trowel: Use to mix & apply mortar & grout
*Tile Nippers: Needed to bite harder grade tiles
*Hand Held Micro Cutter: Use to cut tile
*Tile Cutter: Used for straight or angle cuts

SUBFLOOR PREPARATION:
Concrete, masonry, cured mortar beds and plywood surfaces to be tiled flat, structurally sound, dry and free
from oil, grease, dust, loose paint, sealers or curing compounds. All contaminants must be removed with TILE
NEUTRAL CLEANER, or by sanding, scraping or chipping. Any imperfections the floor should be patched with a
waterproof patching compound.
LAYING OUT THE FLOOR:
Snap chalk lines with a 90 degree intersection, preferably in the center of the room. (Since all rooms vary in
size and shape, consult your sales representative for specific details / hints regarding your project.) The more
time you invest in laying out your area the better your project will go. Solve your lay-out questions before the
adhesive is even mixed.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
For best results, all tiling materials, room and adhesives should be at 50 to 70 degrees for 24 hours before and
48 hours after installation. Thoroughly mix the PRO-FLEX / PRO-FLEX PLATINUM with clean water to a
“toothpaste” consistency. (Use PRO-FLEX PLATINUM or PRO-LASTIC Mortar when installing porcelain or
granite tile.) When mixing either PRO-FLEX or PRO-FLEX PLATINUM Mortar with water, allow to stand 5
minutes to permit the water to react with the latex fortified thinset mortar. Restir and use. It is best to only mix
what can be used in 30 minutes. Stir mixture occasionally to keep creamy, but DO NOT retemper with water as
it will weaken the mix. In the event the mix becomes stiff in the pail, discard and make a fresh batch.
When tiling over an old glue residue, existing ceramic tile or paint, use PROLASTIC Part A and Part B. This
admixture is designed to bond ceramic tile to “questionable surfaces.” Mix this two-part adhesive system
together to a creamy consistency.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS:
First apply your Mortar using the flat side of the trowel to promote substrate contact. Then, using the
recommended notch trowel at a 45 degree angle, spread the Mortar uniformly in a ridged pattern (refer to
illustration). Continue applying mortar in a straight pattern. Do not “swirl” the trowel, as this creates uneven
heights in the mortar.
Spread only an area that can be tiled in 10 to 15 minutes (or while surface is still tacky). Press tile into Mortar
with a slight twisting motion. To prevent any voids or air pockets under the tile, use a small block of wood or
rubber mallet and carefully tap the top of each tile to insure complete contact with Mortar. DO NOT attempt to
set tile into Mortar which has dried.

STAY OFF THE TILE FOR 24 HOURS.
NO HEAVY TRAFFIC FOR 72 hours.
GROUTING:
After the Mortar has dried 24 hours, you are ready to grout. There are a variety of grout colors available to
enhance the look of your tile floor. When working with grout it is mandatory to keep conditions as consistent as
possible throughout the job: moisture, temperature, mixing and application.
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix the grout powder with FLEXIBLE GROUT ADMIXTURE (in place of water), and mix to a “toothpaste”
consistency. It is better to mix no more than can be used within 20 minutes. Mix well. Mix each batch until all
the pigments are dispersed and wet. Then allow the grout to stand for 5 minutes and mix again. The mixing time
for each batch should be the same.
APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS:
Use a GROUT FLOAT to work the grout into the tile joints (refer to illustration below). Skim off the excess grout
with the edge of the Grout Float and wipe the tile immediately with a damp GROUT SPONGE (rinse the Grout
Sponge frequently and change the rinse water regularly). It is better to grout small areas at a time so no grout
will dry on the face of the tile. Remove all of the grout with the exception of a fine film. This film can be buffed off
in 30 to 45 minutes using a clean, dry cloth. For particularly tough areas where grout was inadvertently left on
the tile after the clean-up phase, use GROUT HAZE AND LATEX FILM REMOVER with a scrub pad.

NEVER CLEAN UP GROUT WITH ACIDS — THIS WILL REMOVE YOUR SEALER. SEALING GROUT:
After grout has dried 48 to 72 hours, seal all grout joints with PENETRATING SEALER or STONE SEAL to
reduce maintenance and to retain the grout color. PENETRATING SEALER is a below surface sealer which
reduces water penetration for interior and exterior applications. When applying PENETRATING SEALER to the
grout, wipe excess sealer off the face of the tile IMMEDIATELY with a dry paper towel.
For weekly cleaning of your tile and grout, use GROUT & TILE NEUTRAL CLEANER. This is a neutral cleaner
and will not strip the sealer from the grout joint and because it is not a soap, it is equally effective in hard or
soft, hot or cold water. In the event you experience a stain or difficult soil problem, use HEAVY DUTY GROUT
AND TILE CLEANER mixed with water and work it into the area with a GROUT BRUSH or SCRUB PAD.